I always assumed that the name ‘Milkwood’ was a figment of Dylan Thomas’ well-oiled imagination. But, 10,000 miles away at the southern tip of Africa, I found myself in a forest of real milkwood, or sideroxylon imerme if you prefer: a low, shady, trunk-twisted canopy alive with chirping birds, crawling insects, elusive bushbuck and flowers even more colourful than Dylan’s seamy characters.
I was in Grootbos Private Nature Reserve; 2,500 hectares of coastal hillside owned and managed by the energetic Lutzeyer brothers, and an enthusiastic team of conservationists. Since buying the property in 1991, they have restored native fynbos vegetation, banishing invasive plants and nurturing over 100 bird and 30 mammal species, creating a rare botanical treasure trove. For humans, they built a Garden Lodge with 11 one- and two-bedroom suites, plus 16 more secluded suites for couples at their Forest Lodge, all hidden discreetly amongst the foliage. Both lodges are linked by pathways and a tunnel (no milkwood trees were harmed during the building!), and each has its own swimming pool and restaurant. As a base for nature trails, whale-watching and horse riding, or just a breath of fresh air between Cape Town and the Garden Route, it's unbeatable.
Highs
- The hidden setting on low, wooded hillsides - you don’t know it’s there until you arrive
- We love the secluded cottages with sitting rooms and spacious decks; great for families, and for those without children alike
- Pristine sandy beaches nearby, with prime whale-watching from June-December plus various nature activities run by caring, qualified guides; most of which are included in the price
- If you want to learn about the world's smallest and most diverse floral kingdom, this is the place to stay
- Top marks to their eco credentials: it's a carbon negative reserve and all food is sourced from within 30 miles (much is grown on site); most staff are graduates of the in-house hospitality academy
Lows
- Although Grootbos is located in its own nature reserve, don't expect serious game viewing (except for the world’s biggest mammal, the whale, of course) - for this you will need to go to the Eastern Cape or further afield
- It's not cheap, but meals and many activities are included in the price, so we think it's still great value
Best time to go
Every season has its benefits: June-December is prime whale-watching time (they mate off Walkers Bay, and calve in October-November), August-November is best for spring flowers. December-March is summer: warm, sunny and busy (but the sea is still cold). April-June is autumn, a quiet time with good bird and animal viewing.
Our top tips
As you can see from our Activities page, there is lots to do! If you enjoy nature-watching in all its forms, stay for 5-6 nights; if you feel like a sampler and a chance to unwind, stay for 3-4; and if you are basically stopping over on your way to the Garden Route, then stay for 2 nights (the minimum).
Location
Grootbos Private Nature Reserve is 145km south east of Cape Town, near Hermanus in South Africa.
By Air
Cape Town International (145km) is the closest airport. Flights take 11-13 hours from Europe, but there's no jetlag! Click on the links below for a list of airlines.
From the Airport
It is a 2-hour drive along good tarred roads, heading east via Hermanus. The hotel can arrange a taxi transfer or even a 20-minute helicopter transfer!
By Car
Most people will hire a car - see our car rental recommendations.
Detailed directions will be provided when booking is confirmed.
More on getting to South Africa and getting around.
Airports:
- Cape Town International 145.0 km CPT
Other:
- Beach 3.0 km
- Shops 10.0 km
- Restaurant 10.0 km